Get-to-Know: Borja Pérez
Receive one bottle each of Borja’s four wines.
In the Northern appellation of Ycoden Daute Isora we find Borja Pérez González, a talented, young vigneron, native of La Guancha and ex-race car mechanic and firefighter. In 2011 Borja took over the family winery from his father and uncle and now meticulously farms a little over 7 hectares of his own vineyards and 2 hectares of parcels rented from local farmers. For Borja, the four main features of the 1000 hectares of vineyards in Tenerife are their volcanic soils, Atlantic climate, Alysian winds and original rootstocks. Borja works with four traditional varieties: the scarce Marmajuelo Blanco, Baboso Negro, Listán Negro and Vijariego, all single vineyards with extremely low yields.
From La Vizcondesa Borja produces his Baboso Negro and Marmajuelo Blanco, planted in 1997. 1,5 HA with gorgeous views of the Atlantic Ocean, 450 m elevation and clay and limestone soils.
From Buenavista Norte, 305 m elevation, Borja produces the ungrafted Listán Negro from 40-year-old vines, and clay loam soils.
From Casa Canales, planted in 2006, at 770 m elevation, and with sandy loam soils with thick pebbles, Borja produces his extremely rare Vijariego Negro.
Marmajuelo Blanco 2015 – total production 1300 bottles
This lush and dreamy white wine is made from Tenerife’s native Marmajuelo grapes. Marmajuelo is usually very aromatic, with tropical and terpene notes when fermented in stainless steel tanks. Borja ferments in 500 L used French barrels without cooling to add texture and complexity. The wine then ages for 12 months in barrels on the lees. The result is a deep wine, with great acidity and structure, freshness, a broad palate and a long finish.
Listán Negro 2015 – total production 2350 bottles
The Listán Negro is the queen of the red varieties in Tenerife. It has lots of pulp, fine skins, and produces more aery wines aromatically like a Cabernet Franc. After a rigorous selection in the vineyard and again at the winery, grapes ferment with some skins in a mix of stainless steel and concrete tanks, undergo a soft, infusion-like maceration, and then malolactic fermentation and aging in 500 L used French barrels. The wine is spicy, linear, fresh, seductive, with unique fresh pepper notes and a long finish.
Baboso Negro 2016 – total production 2758 bottles
The Baboso Negro is not a wine you will soon forget. Borja explains it is the most difficult variety to farm, with very low yields, a tendency to rot quickly because of its tight bunches and thin skins, but at the winery it is the most generous and easy to work with. With 40% whole bunches, it ferments in stainless steel tanks, light pressing and then ages for 12 months in used 600 L French oak barrels. On the nose we find peppery notes like the Listán Negro as well as abundant fruit, spices, beautiful acidity and a broad, dense texture. Borja told us he thinks this is the best vintage he has ever made of this wine.
Vijariego Negro 2016 – total production 750 bottles
The Vijariego Negro has the lowest yields and is the most rustic of all of Borja’s varieties. 2016 was the latest recorded harvest for this parcel. Maceration is in stainless steel tanks, press and then does malolactic fermentation and aging for 11 months in 600 L used French oak barrels. The result is a stunning, complex wine with beautiful acidity, earthy tannins, lively fruit, lush texture and a very long finish.